Canadian financial tools

See what a starting balance plus regular deposits grows into, and how much of the final figure is interest rather than your own money.

Pick a target and a deadline to get the monthly deposit, or pick a deposit to see when you get there.

Size a cash buffer against what you actually have to spend, not what you earn, and see how long it takes to fill.

Turn a lumpy future bill — insurance, a car service, Christmas, a replacement laptop — into a flat monthly amount.

What a fixed-rate deposit pays at maturity, and how much difference the interest-payment frequency makes.

What an amount of money is worth after inflation, forwards or backwards, and how much purchasing power the years take out of it.

Convert an advertised nominal rate into the yield you actually earn, and see what the compounding frequency is worth on your balance.

Work out the repayment on a home loan, how much of it is interest, and what paying a little extra each period actually saves you.

What the standard 28/36 lending ratios allow you to buy, which of the two is actually limiting you, and what your other debts are costing in purchase price.

What an adjustable rate saves you while the starting rate holds, and what it costs if the rate climbs as far as your caps allow.

What money parked in an offset account is worth: interest saved, and how much sooner the loan finishes.

Gross and net rental yield, with vacancy and running costs taken out — the figure an agent’s "yield" usually is not.

Whether switching loans is worth it: the monthly saving, how long the costs take to come back, and what the change does to total interest.

Compares the true net cost of renting and buying over the years you actually stay, counting transaction costs, running costs and the return on a deposit left invested.

What paying a little more each month does to your loan: the years it removes, the interest it saves, and how early the payoff date moves.

Mortgage payments using the semi-annual compounding convention required in Canada.

Order several debts by interest rate or by balance, add whatever you can spare, and see which order clears them sooner.

What paying only the minimum really costs, against paying a fixed amount every month until the card is clear.

Repayments and total interest on a car loan, with the effect of a longer term and of paying a little extra each time.

Repayments, total interest and the payoff schedule on an unsecured personal loan, including what extra repayments are worth.

Split take-home pay into needs, wants and saving, then compare the split against what you actually spend now.

Your savings rate, and what it means: the years between now and the point where investments cover your spending.

Everything you own minus everything you owe, split into what is liquid today and what is locked in property or retirement.

Add up what recurring charges cost across a year, and what the ones you would cancel are worth if invested instead.

Turn a start value, an end value and a period into one annual growth rate — with your own deposits taken back out of it.

What a percentage point of fees actually costs over a working life, against a low-cost alternative.

What a return is worth after inflation and tax — the growth in what the money can actually buy.

How long money takes to double at a given return — the mental shortcut, and the exact answer beside it.

A starting split between growth and defensive assets based on your age, your horizon and how you actually behave in a fall.

The buy and sell amounts that bring each holding back to its target weight, using new money first where possible.

Investing a windfall all at once against drip-feeding it in — the cost of waiting when markets rise, and why people still wait.

The true cost of a conversion: the stated fee plus the margin hidden in the exchange rate you were given.

How many units cover your fixed costs, and how many get you to the profit you actually want.

How long the cash lasts at your current burn, and whether revenue growth gets there before the balance does.

Convert a salary into the contract rate that actually matches it, including the weeks you will not bill and the costs an employer used to cover.

What your savings will support in retirement, in today’s money — the balance you reach, the spending it sustains, and the age it runs out if you spend more.

How long until your portfolio covers your spending, based on your savings rate and the withdrawal rate you are willing to rely on.

Which account leaves more after tax — deduct now and pay on withdrawal, or contribute after tax and withdraw free.

What comes off your pay for national pension and unemployment contributions, band by band.

Federal and regional income tax, with credits and deductions handled separately.